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Sho-Me Dodge/Jeep Stop/Turn/Tail Flasher
Stop / Turn / Tail LED Flasher for Dodge and Jeep Vehicles
The has been specifically engineered and manufactured by SHO-ME to engage the factory installed LEDs lights on the center trunk section of select Jeep and Dodge vehicles. Your vehicle will need the LED rope lights around the rear of the trunk. This Stop/Turn/Tail style flasher is installed in-line with the vehicle's existing lighting and brake system to allow the factory trunk lighting system to flash upper-lower while your emergency lights are engaged as well as cease flashing and act as a full brake light when the brake pedal is depressed. The flasher can be installed in about 60 minutes or less and should be installed only by those familiar with vehicle wiring and 12V systems. The 11.1005STT.BTL and 11.1005STT.CHG each features 10 flash patterns. Made in the USA.
- Ten flash patterns
- For use with LED lights only
- Made in the U.S.A
|Amps per Output:||3 amps max per outlet|
|Maximum Amps:||6 amps max total|
|Dimensions:||2" H x 4" W x 1/2" D|
10 Flash Patterns
|1.||Dim Tail Light|
|2.||Brighten Tail Light|
|3.||Selected Turn Signal|
While really not too difficult to install, the SHO-ME flasher should be installed only by those familiar and comfortable with 12V DC automotive wiring systems. The installation of this flasher will require being able to identify and locate specific wires in the vehicles running light and braking wiring harness. Improper installation of the Dodge Charger flasher could result in these vital systems not operating properly or at all. We have intentionally left out specific vehicle wire colors as they are subject to change from model year to model year.
Red Wire - Will be the flasher's primary 12V power source. This wire should be fused in-line and ran direct to the battery or the battery lug located in the trunk. This 12V source is hot all the time.
Black Wire - This is the ground wire. Using a ring terminal, screw it directly to the frame or chassis of the vehicle. Better yet, connect it to the grounding lug located in the trunk area near the battery.
White/Brown Wire - This is your 12V switched power source that will actually turn the flasher on/off. This wire is typically extended forward to your dash area or to your console switch box and is tied to the primary switch that you use to engage your emergency lights. If you have your vehicle's emergency lights spread on multiple switches, then just select the one switch that you want to use to engage your rear flasher.
White Wire - This is your flash pattern select wire. Connection of this wire is not required for operation, but can be used to cycle through your flash patterns if and when desired. The easiest way to cycle though patterns is by touching the white wire to the red power wire for 2-3 seconds and remove. While the wires are touching, you should notice the lights freeze-up or lock up and stop flashing and then continue flashing once the wire is removed. Each time you touch the wires together successfully, the flasher will change patterns. Cycle though until you find a pattern you like. We typically just put a butt connector on this wire and keep it readily available in case the customer wants to choose a different pattern than our selection. If you have an aftermarket installed positive switching momentary button then you may connect this wire to it as well for convenient flash pattern changing from the drivers seat.
Purple Wire - This will be your tail light control wire. To hook this up, start the car and use a volt meter or test light on the plug that goes to the center LEDs on the trunk lid. This should be an obvious small plug on the passenger side of the trunk area with four wires - one of them being a black wire (ground). Locate the wire that reads 12V hot when the running lights or head lights are turned on and shows dead (no voltage) when the headlights are off. Cut this wire approximately three or four inches away from the plug. You’ll love yourself when you remove the flasher later and have to reconnect the wires. Connect the purple wire to the car side of the wire. Essentially, this wire tells the flasher to turn on the ring light LEDs for running lights when your primary flasher switch (white/brown wire) is turned off.
Yellow wire - This is the left LED power wire. Using a butt connector, connect this wire to the other side (the lights side) of the wire that you just cut when connecting the purple wire. This wire tells the center ring LEDs to flash when your emergency lights on.
Green wire - This will be the brake wire sensor. This signal tells the flasher to pause the flashing of the tail section (if they are on, active and flashing and make the running lights now brake lights). To hook this wire up, you will need to find the third brake light wire harness located near the center of the trunk lid and then find the wire that is 12V hot - only when you step on the brake. Again, cut this wire about three or four inches from the connector. Connect the two ends of the this wire back together while splicing in the green wire. Test and ensure the third brake light still works.
Blue wire - You may have noticed that prior to re-wiring your charger that only the inside LED lights would activate when you hit the brakes. We don’t need to change that, but we do want to work on the running lights (that only come on with the running lights on). Find both plugs for the right and left light (four wires). Use your meter to find the wire that shows power when the running lights are on (NOT the brake lights). Now, cut both of these wires, one on the left, one on the right. Double check that the brake lights still work. If they still work, then run a new wire between the two wires you just cut. Hook this wire to the wire harness on the light assembly. Terminate the wires coming from the car so they do not short out. Extend and run your blue wire to this new wire and hook it all together. This blue wire now powers both the left and right running lights in your brake light assembly.
This should finish up all the wiring and now its time to test it. Make sure your brake lights work properly and that all the LEDs in the center ring come on when you hit the brake. Now, release the brake and turn on the running/headlights. The outer LED lights should be on - just like it was from the factory. Now turn on your emergency lights and your center LED lights and outer LED lights should alternate (think of it as center/outer instead of right/left) Lastly, with the emergency lights still flashing, hit the brakes and hold. The center ring LEDs should not be flashing and should all be on steady burn indicating braking. When you release the pedal they should resume flashing.
Showing reviews 1-4 of 5 Next
Posted by Unknown on 1st Sep 2017
Works great especially on the slicktop vehicles I've installed it on.
Posted by Unknown on 11th Aug 2017
One Officer ask me to order it for his car, after others saw it I still ordering them! Outstanding piece of equipment!
Factory flasher is horrible
Posted by Kevin on 12th Jan 2017
Due to the factory flasher being horrible and only flashing the brake lights, I got this Sho-me flasher. This flasher works really well and I will definitely be getting more for our fleet
Posted by Jeff Rhoads on 23rd May 2016
Fast install, easy to set up
Showing reviews 1-4 of 5 Next